Bike, Eat, Sleep

I'm back from a two-week bike trip around the scenic highways and backroads of Washington's North Cascades. On my journey I carried with me two key heavy items: a journal and a novel. The novel "Eat Pray Love" is titled for the author's perspective on the most important things in life. My life for the the past two weeks has consisted of the most important elements of "Bike Eat Sleep". Below are stories and pictures from my travels.

Day 1 ~ 40 miles

A foggy start from Port Townsend. I hopped aboard my familiar ferry - but this time I wasn't going to work! I stopped by my office in Coupeville to say "hi" but sped off up the Island I have become so familiar with through my work doing water monitoring for Island County. But the water could pass through the culverts as long as it wanted- I didn't have to collect it!

Day 2 ~ 40 miles My departure was somewhat timed so that I could meet up with former co-worker John. Back when we both lived on Whidbey we would go on rides after work, so fitting that he could join me on this ride. To make logistics work out, he picked me up at the Guemes ferry and after breakfast at the Calico Cupboard, drove us to Sedro Wolley. Flat terrain and a tail wind, we sped through the Skagit River Valley, touring back roads and the mostly dreary towns along highway 20 (though Lyman has great public restrooms!).
We were able to stay with a college friend of my Dad's in Rockport. I think I found a model for my dream home - his is all wood, uniquely designed, and with an adorable guest house out in the woods. Good to not be in a tent for a night of west-side rain.





Day 3 ~40 miles

Rain. Lots of rain. Didn't regret bringing the heavy rain fly and rain gear today. Bad day for riding along a busy highway with grouchy weekend-travelers whos plans were being spoiled by the rain. We tried not to let the rain get us donw and stopped in Marblemount for a late breakfast. By the time we were done the sky had cleared up a bit. Mostly flat through Newhalem (where it was time for a icecream break) then the begining of The Ascent. I'm glad I got just a bit of climbing in this day. I was overheated and shaky after the first climb, but that got my muscles used to what was ahead (and honestly, nothing in Day 4 was as hard as that first climb). We camped at the glacier blue Diablo Lake - but not ideal for a swim, as the rain began again.


Day 4 ~ 50 miles, ~4000 ft elevation gain Solo. Ascent up the mountains. Climbing. Slowly. Steadily. "Are we there yet?" gives way to "We can have a break and snack at the end of that next guard rail." Rain means cold- coat on, the hot- coat off. It als means less heat exhaustion and sweating and I make it the whole way on the 4 bottles of water I brought. Climbing means "hungry" and snacks about every half hour. But I know the mountains, I know the distances and I know I can do it.


Day 5 ~ 25 miles

It was hard to tear myself away from the river to bicycle today. I had an ideal campsite and the river's babble brought perfect contentment. But I knew more loveliness awaited. After a brief stop at the Mazama Country Store (where I couldn't stay long because there were too many lycra-clad people who looked just like me) I went up Lost River (!) a ways then took the Methow Community Trail through pine and riparian forest along the Methow River. Only 20 or so miles to cover today and I took my time just Being in some of the most beatiful country on the planet.

Day 6 ~ 10 miles

My first true day of rest, with a mere 10 miles to pedal :) And this the familiar route I used to commute every day between Winthrop and Twisp. I enjoyed rest at a friend's house in Winthrop, then lunch with my friend Katie in Twisp. We ate at a new taco place in town - amazing yam and caramelized onion tacos. Together with some lime-aid it just hit the spot - Can we transport that taco place to every stop along my route? I spent the afternoon at my favorite swimming hole at the Twisp Park and then a dinner of fresh garden-greens with my former roomate Leah.

Day 7 ~35 miles
I start the day with a Cinnamon Twist at the Cinnamon Twisp bakery. While there, another bike tourist in civilian garb identifies me as kindred spirit and we start sharing stories. She is also bike-touring by herself for the first time, also turning 30 and starting grad school in the fall. She's doing the reverse route from what I'm doing, but covering more territory, and had been doing a whopping 90 miles a day. The fact that she's sitting there icing her ancle reinforces her statement that she'd like to take things slower now. I explain the joy of 40 miles days and describe the best places to camp. I go down the valley today, where the landscape gets progressively drier. Following the Methow in its sparking glory, cruising by golden hillsides, quaint farms and apple orchards- Sagebrush country! A fine moment when I came across some bicyclists on a "supported ride".. they had a nice water stop set up for them, and I helped myself to their group's water and gatorade. Temperatures were inching above 90. I made it to Alta Lake before all my water was too hot to drink, and spent the afternoon swimming in the lake!

Day 8 ~ 30 miles

Short day of riding today, but with temperatures in the upper 90s I was glad to get to my lakeside campground before 1pm. Problem I've discovered with bike-touring is that, although it's a great alternative form of travel, you go places all the people with cars can go. So although I was happy to have a campsite on the shores of Lake Chelan, it wasn't a pristine mountain lake, but a mecca for jet-skiers and motor-boaters and loud people and children and basically a big party on the beach.

Day 9 ~ 50 miles

Get up at dawn on Lake Chelan. All the late-night-Kumbaya singers are sleeping. Some on the docks. I know it's going to be a hot one so I have to get going. I travel straight UP and then down a beautiful pine-forest canyon, then down to the Columbia River. Such a different area out there. Dry country. Blue sky, slack water, and passing trains. I have a feeling the cars passing haven't seen many bicyclists out here. I'm sure they're looking at me like I'm crazy. Even by 8am it's really hot out. Still, I'm having the time of my life :)

Approaching Wenatchee things get ugly. More cars, more trucks. Wearhouse and cement. The section of 97/2 is just aweful - it's like riding along I-5, semi after semi, and since it's Friday, the beginning of weekend traffic. I stop at a 50s diner to get lemonade and ask directions -give me a backroad Please! But the directions are vague and I get lost in apple orchards with not even a farmworker around to ask for directions. Back on the shadeless highway, highs approaching 107 today... The image of cool, mountainous Leavenworth keeps me going. In Little Bavaria I find a Starbucks - guarenteed cold drinks and bagels and air conditioning. I think I spent about 2 hours there before working up the energy to move on.

Day 10 - 11 ~ 0 miles

The weekend temperatures and a visiting friend allow me to change my plans. Instead of going over 97 then over 90 as I'd planned, my friend Gwen came to visit me in Leavenworth. We pack my bike into her car and spend the next two days hanging out in the mountains by a stream swimming and hiking! She drives me over the scary Highway 2, land of high-speed traffic and no shoulders. This way I miss climbing over a mountain pass (it's not the physical effort I'm releaved to avoid, but the traffic!) and avoid city riding. Gwen drops me off at the Bainbridge ferry. While it felt like cheating and the transition from the lovely east side to the city came way too fast, I wouldn't have been able to complete this loup without the help of my dear friend :)Day 12-13 ~ 80 miles

Back on the west side, back in the rain! Not much to say about Bainbridge and Kitsap County except that I had to ride way too many busy roads in way too much rain. By the time I got to Quilcene I knew the area from previous rides, got on back roads for a smooth trip back to Port Townsend!

From ocean to mountain to dry country to city and back! I'd recommend this trip to anyone as a way to see the best of Washington. As for me, well, I've always wanted to see Montana ... :)

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